Donnerstag, 14. Dezember 2006
Halb so wild
chelsea farmer's club - cfc_albert
Fuer alle, die gebangt haben, wie gruen denn Gruen wohl sein werde http://cfc.blogger.de/stories/622374/, kann ich Entwarnung geben:
Christophs Deputatkiste ist wohlbehalten und vollstaendig hier angekommen - und was die Farbe anbelangt, hatte er - wie immer - masslos uebertrieben.
In der Kiste befanden sich organge Gartenhanschuhe, Gummistiefel gleicher Farbe, ein Satz der klassischen cfc-Visitenkarten http://cfc.blogger.de/stories/426809/, ein Kinderregenmantel (?), Avantgardeliteratur, cfc-Katreikarten (??), ein langer handschriftlicher Brief - und eben jenes Richard James Jackett aus dem dunklen Restefundus, ueber das ich mich besonders freue, denn der Schneider ist schon ne Klasse fuer sich, wie man hier http://www.richardjames.co.uk/ unschwer sehen kann, denn kaum einer sonst bekommt so die Rueckensilhouette hin... (ausser vielleicht noch Huntsman http://www.h-huntsman.com/) - ...und natuerlich sitzt und passt es perfekt.
Jetzt muss ich nur noch ueberlegen, was wir mit dem Kinderregenmantel machen... Aber keine Sorge, da faellt uns schon was ein.
http://www.chelseafarmersclub.de/
... comment
cfc_albert,
Donnerstag, 14. Dezember 2006, 09:29
Huntsman's Gentlemens' Guide
(b.t.w. Auf der Huntsman-Site kann man einen Gentlemens' Guide runterladen - und der ist - obwohl solche Dinge natuerlich in der Regel ausgemachter Mist sind - mal ganz ok. - Ich stell ihn in Kopie auch hier ein...)
Huntsman can offer advice and help you select key pieces for your wardrobe:
Suits
Ideally, a suit should only be worn once a week. Therefore your wardrobe should consist of five suits for Spring/Summer and five for Autumn/Winter. Lightweight suits should be between 7 to 9 ounces in weight and single breasted. Plain weaves, subtle self stripes and muted checks work well during the warmer months.
Heavier suits can be 12 ounces or more and can be double breasted, two piece or three piece, in bolder stripes, herringbones, bird’s-eyes, glen checks and worsted pick & picks. You may wish to wear the same weight of fabric all year round. If this is the case, 10-12 ounces is ideal worn as single breasted two piece or double breasted.
Jackets/Blazers
One or two sports jackets and blazers make very versatile additions to any wardrobe. Sports jackets can be tweed or cashmere for the winter and wool/silk blends or lightweight wool for the summer. Blazers are very practical for smart or casual occasions. Worsted serge or flannel for the winter months. Gabardine or wool/silk for the summer.
Trousers
A selection of flannels, cavalry twills, gabardines, corduroys, cool wool, linens and cottons can be worn throughout the year with your favourite sports coats and blazers.
Formal Wear
A dinner suit, or ‘Black Tie’, is essential for every Gentleman’s wardrobe. Made from black barathea or wool/mohair, a single breasted two piece is perfect for all black tie occasions. You will have options for lapel shape and silk facings and can wear a cummerbund or waistcoat, which will match the jacket or could be fancy silk brocade.
The addition of a white dinner jacket gives you a black tie alternative, for summer parties worn with the rest of the black tie outfit.
A velvet smoking jacket can also be worn with black tie trousers if the occasion is right.
An evening tail-suit, or ‘White Tie’, is only worn to very formal occasions. The black barathea tailcoat with pure silk facings is worn with trousers carrying two rows of braid on the side seams and a white pique waistcoat with matching bow tie. A wing collared stiff front shirt with dress studs and cuff links are essential accessories.
Morning suits are a must for the wedding season and race meetings such as Royal Ascot or the Epsom Derby. The outfit for all occasions is a black herringbone coat worn with black and grey stripe trousers. A dove grey, buff or fancy waistcoat, white shirt and colourful tie finish the ensemble perfectly.
Country wear
A tweed shooting suit has many items including the coat itself with gun patch on the shoulder and pleats in the back, lower bellows pockets for cartridges and optional self belt. Plus ‘2’s or trousers can be worn with matching waistcoat. Huntsman have also designed a shooting vest, cut from the tweed you have chosen for the suit, which is sleeveless and worn over the shirt. It has many pockets and suede gun patch.
Shirts
A large selection of shirts should be rotated in your wardrobe. Cotton business shirts for the office in plains, stripes, subtle checks. Linen shirts for more casual occasions. Dress shirts for black & white tie.
Accessories
Plain gold cuff-links and dress studs for formal wear. Alternative cuff-links for business wear. Silver collar bones, for all occasions.
Footwear
Business shoes, like suits, should not be over worn. Your wardrobe should have at least five pairs of classic shoes for wearing during the week. Choose from Oxford and Brogue lace-ups, Monk shoes with strap and buckle, tassled loafers and elastic sided ankle boots. Brown shoes are acceptable with your business suit, but remember to match the colour to your belt. Tobacco suede shoes should only be worn with your weekend sports jackets and sturdy brown leather brogues with rubber soles are perfect with the country tweeds. Patent leather shoes are only worn with black & white tie.
Headwear
You may occasionally want to wear a hat during the winter on your way to work. Trilby hats in black or navy felt look very elegant as do brown versions with your covert coat. In summer, the Panama hat comes into its own as does the straw boater, seen at Henley Regatta. Huntsman can offer you tweed caps to match your shooting suit.
Hosiery
As a rule, try and match the colour of your socks to your trousers. Black with formal wear and navy or grey with your business suits. Knee length wool socks for the colder months and shorter cotton for the summer.
Outerwear
Black, charcoal grey or navy blue overcoats are ideal to wear over your winter suits. Light brown covert coats, with optional velvet collar, can also be worn in town as an alternative in milder weather. A cotton raincoat is an essential item to have in your wardrobe, either single breasted or a double breasted trench coat. A cashmere scarf is very comfortable against the neck and leather gloves with wool lining will keep out the cold.
http://www.h-huntsman.com/
Huntsman can offer advice and help you select key pieces for your wardrobe:
Suits
Ideally, a suit should only be worn once a week. Therefore your wardrobe should consist of five suits for Spring/Summer and five for Autumn/Winter. Lightweight suits should be between 7 to 9 ounces in weight and single breasted. Plain weaves, subtle self stripes and muted checks work well during the warmer months.
Heavier suits can be 12 ounces or more and can be double breasted, two piece or three piece, in bolder stripes, herringbones, bird’s-eyes, glen checks and worsted pick & picks. You may wish to wear the same weight of fabric all year round. If this is the case, 10-12 ounces is ideal worn as single breasted two piece or double breasted.
Jackets/Blazers
One or two sports jackets and blazers make very versatile additions to any wardrobe. Sports jackets can be tweed or cashmere for the winter and wool/silk blends or lightweight wool for the summer. Blazers are very practical for smart or casual occasions. Worsted serge or flannel for the winter months. Gabardine or wool/silk for the summer.
Trousers
A selection of flannels, cavalry twills, gabardines, corduroys, cool wool, linens and cottons can be worn throughout the year with your favourite sports coats and blazers.
Formal Wear
A dinner suit, or ‘Black Tie’, is essential for every Gentleman’s wardrobe. Made from black barathea or wool/mohair, a single breasted two piece is perfect for all black tie occasions. You will have options for lapel shape and silk facings and can wear a cummerbund or waistcoat, which will match the jacket or could be fancy silk brocade.
The addition of a white dinner jacket gives you a black tie alternative, for summer parties worn with the rest of the black tie outfit.
A velvet smoking jacket can also be worn with black tie trousers if the occasion is right.
An evening tail-suit, or ‘White Tie’, is only worn to very formal occasions. The black barathea tailcoat with pure silk facings is worn with trousers carrying two rows of braid on the side seams and a white pique waistcoat with matching bow tie. A wing collared stiff front shirt with dress studs and cuff links are essential accessories.
Morning suits are a must for the wedding season and race meetings such as Royal Ascot or the Epsom Derby. The outfit for all occasions is a black herringbone coat worn with black and grey stripe trousers. A dove grey, buff or fancy waistcoat, white shirt and colourful tie finish the ensemble perfectly.
Country wear
A tweed shooting suit has many items including the coat itself with gun patch on the shoulder and pleats in the back, lower bellows pockets for cartridges and optional self belt. Plus ‘2’s or trousers can be worn with matching waistcoat. Huntsman have also designed a shooting vest, cut from the tweed you have chosen for the suit, which is sleeveless and worn over the shirt. It has many pockets and suede gun patch.
Shirts
A large selection of shirts should be rotated in your wardrobe. Cotton business shirts for the office in plains, stripes, subtle checks. Linen shirts for more casual occasions. Dress shirts for black & white tie.
Accessories
Plain gold cuff-links and dress studs for formal wear. Alternative cuff-links for business wear. Silver collar bones, for all occasions.
Footwear
Business shoes, like suits, should not be over worn. Your wardrobe should have at least five pairs of classic shoes for wearing during the week. Choose from Oxford and Brogue lace-ups, Monk shoes with strap and buckle, tassled loafers and elastic sided ankle boots. Brown shoes are acceptable with your business suit, but remember to match the colour to your belt. Tobacco suede shoes should only be worn with your weekend sports jackets and sturdy brown leather brogues with rubber soles are perfect with the country tweeds. Patent leather shoes are only worn with black & white tie.
Headwear
You may occasionally want to wear a hat during the winter on your way to work. Trilby hats in black or navy felt look very elegant as do brown versions with your covert coat. In summer, the Panama hat comes into its own as does the straw boater, seen at Henley Regatta. Huntsman can offer you tweed caps to match your shooting suit.
Hosiery
As a rule, try and match the colour of your socks to your trousers. Black with formal wear and navy or grey with your business suits. Knee length wool socks for the colder months and shorter cotton for the summer.
Outerwear
Black, charcoal grey or navy blue overcoats are ideal to wear over your winter suits. Light brown covert coats, with optional velvet collar, can also be worn in town as an alternative in milder weather. A cotton raincoat is an essential item to have in your wardrobe, either single breasted or a double breasted trench coat. A cashmere scarf is very comfortable against the neck and leather gloves with wool lining will keep out the cold.
http://www.h-huntsman.com/
... link
... comment
