Sonntag, 14. Mai 2006
High on horsin 'round


Wir haben das immer schon gewusst - mit diesen widerlichen weiten Hosen nimmt das irgendwann ein Ende. - Und jetzt ist es offiziell - diesen ganzen Rapper-Quatsch, diese komischen Schlabberhosen, die noch den Bestgewachsenen zu einem untersetzten Gnom machen, dieser Mist ist weg. Endlich. Das Diktat der Strasse endet auf derselben. Endlich.
Und die Salons werden wieder in angemessenem Stil besucht.
- UNS war das schon lange klar...

Und unser Hausorgan wider die Verrohung der Kleiderkultur, die Financial Times, schreibt am Wochenende:

"People are tired of the sloppy gypsy thing and interested in clothes which are more structured."
http://news.ft.com/cms/s/e5b7d5de-e19f-11da-bf4c-0000779e2340.html

Here we are.



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horsin' continued
Getting up high on the horsey trend
By Syl Tang
Published: May 13 2006 03:00 | Last updated: May 13 2006 03:00

Though the Kentucky Derby, the riding world's Olympics, only took place last Saturday, the next seasons will see more riding fashions than James Locke has hats.

Two months ago equestrian looks dominated the autumn/winter runways. Balenciaga showed riding caps; Versace tight legging trousers with leather trimmed jackets; Zero Maria Cornejo and Vena Cava shiny riding boots and sharply-cut riding jackets; and Nicole Romano an entire collection inspired by the Epsom Derby in the UK and Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp. Meanwhile, rumours swirled of a Michael Kors partnership with long-time classic riding gear company Dehner, who supply Kors with custom-made boots for the catwalk. So, since fashion often reflects the way the world feels about money (Calvin Klein's minimalism in the 1990s, followed by bling at the turn of the century), perhaps all this love of riding is saying something about the new money to be made in the sport.

"I just got back from Germany and they are showing riding clothes in the cities," says Dehner's president Jeff Ketzler. "Years ago, I remember there was a fox hunting theme on the [American] soap opera General Hospital. With just one character into fox hunting, suddenly there were jodhpurs everywhere. That was 15 years ago and now it's back."

In the US, at La Cense Montana, the number one place to purchase quarter horses, Beth Stefani says that demographics worldwide are the reason. "This year we will double the number of horses we sell and we don't do a lot of marketing; it's word of mouth. There are more horses today than ever before. But it's not in the hunter-jumper world where the growth is. That's old news. It's in the Ralph Lauren meets Sundance catalogue market and that's why the clothing is suddenly so popular... When you talk to people running dude ranches, there's huge attendance from England and Germany and Norway. It was always there, but it's become more accessible and a lot of it has to do with the baby boomers hitting the leisure time in their life."

"The one thing that has really changed in horse breeding and horse racing is the way in which racing is presented," says John Roselli, director of Kara Korum. A lot of tracks around the world have come up with festivals of racing and they present several huge races all at once such as the Dubai World Cupand the World Thoroughbred Championship, better known as the Breeder's Cup at Belmont, which will move to Churchill Downs at the end of October (home of the Kentucky Derby).

One thing is for sure: there is a very real and unprecedented accessibility to not just leisurely riding but horse ownership. Historically, while England and France have been quite horsey, it wasn't until the mid-1990s, when the United Arab Emirates put huge purses into horse racing, that breeding started to become a world pastime. Little by little, this led to races in Hong Kong (in December), Tokyo (in the spring) and even Florida's Summit of Speed. And while only the very rich could afford the best thoroughbreds, in the mid- to late-1990s, Kara Korum changed that. Though the company was not the first to create partnerships (which have been around for 30 years), shares in their horses, some of which have given the company a quarter of a million a year in returns, can be had for as little as $499. For an industry where the entry investment is typically $50,000, and often doesn't work out, this was a great change.

"Wearing riding-inspired clothes is another way of showing you have arrived," says Rieke Veltel, head designer for the German label Rena Lange, who showed up-to-the-knee boots with riding inspired clothes. "Yes, it has been a classic and chic way of dressing, which comes from men's tailoring transformed into women's wear. And tailoring is coming back, combined with skinny trousers, which is a trend right now anyway."

Witness trend-maven Madonna and her newfound love for riding. Perhaps the pop idol is just reflecting what she's seen on the runways, from Wolfgang Joop's riding jacket for Wunderkind to the racing prize ribbons on Tracy Reese's dresses. Regardless, her appearance in her new gear has caused a surge in orders of fashion-inspired boots at Der-Dau.

"It's a quality sport, a nice and elegant sport, but it has been an atmosphere that is stiff," says Jean Cassegrain, president of Longchamp, where the logo is the rider. "People are tired of the sloppy gypsy thing and interested in clothes which are more structured."

"It has to do with culture and sportsmanship, it has to do with aristocratic, back to the good old times," says Veltel of the style's appeal. "Horseback riding used to be something you were invited to by the king, but with horseback hunting not allowed in England any more, it's about getting to be someone you're actually not: living in a castle, living a dream."

Syl Tang tracks trends and runs HipGuide Inc ceo@hipguide.com

SADDLE UP

http://www.Balenciaga.com

http://www.venacavanyc.com

http://www.mariacornejo.com

http://www.nicoleromano.com

http://www.michaelkors.com

http://www.dehner.com

http://www.dubaiworldcup.com

http://www.kentuckyderby.com/2006

http://www.longchamp.com

http://www.afshinfeiz.com

http://www.lacensemontana.com

http://www.renalange.com

http://www.KaraKorum.com

http://www.versace.com


http://news.ft.com/cms/s/e5b7d5de-e19f-11da-bf4c-0000779e2340.html

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